Photo 1 - Most race quads incur a lot more abuse than recreational machines do. Crashes and unforeseen obstacles can cause misalignments and damage to the front end. For that reason they must always be checked and adjusted for optimal performance.

Photo 2 - Having a buddy help you set up your bike is very important. Having him set the ride height and hold the handle bars straight make the outcome much nicer. Since the upper control arm, lower control arm and steering tie rod are all different lengths the quad must be aligned closest to ride height.

Photo 3 - First make sure you check the tire pressure in all four tires and also that the quad is on flat level ground. Then inspect the components for damage making sure parts aren't bent, broken or loose.

Photo 4 - Checking the camber can be done by using a carpenters square such as this one. The camber is amount of " lean " the tire has, the more camber the more the tire will bite in the corners. This measurement is usually taken at the gap between the edge of the square and the top of the wheel. In most cases this is between ¼ to 1 inch depending on the track conditions.

Photo 5 - In order to change the camber the upper control arm ball joint jam nut is loosened and the ball joint screwed in or out for the desired angle. In most cases the factory arm cannot be adjusted for camber.

Photo 8 - To adjust the toe loosen the jam nuts on the tie rod shafts and with the handle bars held in place these shafts can be screwed in or out to set the toe. Small tip: rolling the quad back and forth will relax the force against the tires.

Photo 9 - With the jam nuts tight you are ready to ride. Remember the stance of the front end and the alignment can be set to many different configurations, finding one that works best for you is the key to proper control and comfort.

Photo 1 - The front bumper mounting bolts and front bumper must be removed to allow the upper and lower A-arm pivot bolts to be removed.

Photo 2 - To avoid cracking the brake lines we simply removed the two retaining bolts and slid the caliper through the upper control arm. This saves us from having to re-bleed the brakes after our install.

Photo 3 - With the caliper out of the way we can now remove the ball joint bolts allowing us to remove the spindle.

Photo 4 - In order to remove the spindle the tie rod must be disconnected and removed. We found it very simple to just loosen the tie rod jam nuts and unscrew the tie rod completely.

Photo 5 - Before the upper and lower A-arms can be removed we had to unbolt the shock. To save time we only removed the lower shock bolt.

Photo 6 - Now finally we can unbolt the factory A-arms and remove them from the frame.

Photo 7 - Here we can see the comparison between the factory aluminum A-arm and the massive chromoly A-arm produced by Avenger Performance Products.

Photo 8 - Here is the comparison in the lower A-arm. Notice the immense ball joint Avenger designed for all their Yamaha line of suspension. This ball joint uses an 11/16" shank, a chromoly spud and is designed to out articulate any ball joint in the market today.

Photo 9 - Now the new Avenger A-arms can be installed. To make things easier we passed the shock and brake assembly right through the upper A-arm. Time management at it's best!

Photo 10 - With the upper A-arm mounted the lower A-arm can be installed and the shock bolt put in place.

Photo 11 - Next the spindle bolts right to the Avenger ball joints and the new nylock nuts can be put into use. Note: The upper ball joint should be left loose so at the end of the install the final camber can be set.

Photo 12 - Finally the Avenger high tensile strength tie rod can be screwed into place and the toe adjusted.

Photo 13 - With the transformation complete these +2 Avenger A-arms give this machine a mean stance as well as killer looks! With the toe set at a positive 1/8" and the camber at 3 degrees we are ready to carve some mean trails!

Photo 1 - Loosen the two set screws that lock the axle nut into place. Making sure to back them out far enough that they will not touch the threads on removal.

Photo 2 - Now with the bike on the ground and the rear brake applied, we can loosen the axle nut using a big enough wrench. Don't give up now this is the hardest part of the job!

Photo 3 - With the ATV now on a jack we can remove only the right rear tire. 

Photo 4 - Removing the large nut on the end of the axle will allow the hub to be removed.

Photo 5 - With the hub gone the axle nuts can be unscrewed and removed, hint remembering the order they came off will make re-installment a snap.

Photo 6 - The rear brake caliper needs to be removed before the brake rotor can be slipped off.

Photo 7 - With removal of the caliper the bolts that hold the brake line to the swing arm can now be removed. 

Photo 8 - On most new sport quads the factory chain has no master link and must be removed with a chain braker.

Photo 9 - Now the linkage bolts can be loosened and the nuts removed.

Photo 10 - The swing arm pivot bolt can now be loosened but not yet removed.

Photo 11 - With the axle nuts, brake rotor, and wheel hub removed the axle can be slipped out the left side of the raptor.

Photo 12 - Using a long punch the swing arm pivot bolt can be knocked out and the linkage bolts removed. This allows the removal of the swing arm.

Photo 13 - This shows the comparison of the stock swing arm and the new chromoly +3 avenger swing arm. Notice that the avenger unit has a Honda style rear billet axle carrier in it, making chain adjustment a breeze.

Photo 14 - The new avenger swing arm comes with all new hardware and front pivot bearings, but some of the factory pivot components must be removed and reused. Note this is a great time to inspect the components for excessive wear and damaged parts.

Photo 15 - With the pivot parts installed in the new swing arm the factory chain slider can also be bolted on at this time.

Photo 16 - The new avenger swing arm can now be bolted into place with the new hardware that came with it.

Photo 17 - Reinstalling the axle in the new avenger twin row bearing carrier allows the installment of the brake rotor and caliper. Note the spacers and new bolts make using the factory parts really easy.

Photo 18 - Now that the caliper is in place, the brake line can routed and fastened to the swing arm.

Photo 19 - Putting the new chain on and adjusting it to the proper tension is made easy with the new style axle carrier. Make sure that the axle, when rotated, is closer to the top of swing arm. This set the correct ride height and chain angle.

Photo 20 - Having a longer and strong avenger swing arm not only makes this quad turn heads, but it will also calm this raptor into something we can control!